Scout leader

So apparently it was Thanksgiving in the USA this week (I did actually know that this year, after attending a thanksgiving “dinner” at my brother and his American fiancé’s (“Tough Chick”) place last weekend), and, as I have just found out, the next day is called “black Friday”. I always just thought that was Friday the 13th, but according to Wikipedia, the term have been used as such since before 1961. Since ages ago, in the USA this means crazy assed sales, sometimes involving violence.

What it means for us NZ sewists, is that sewing patterns also go on sale, woot! Only a few of the active members of the WSBN came out unscathed… I did not.

Scout woven tee

I took advantage of 20% off at Grainline Studio to buy the Scout Woven Tee and the Archer Shirt; and decided to buy the Riger Bomber by Papercut Patterns after seeing Sophie from Cirque-du-Bebe’s polka dot version (after pretty much reading her entire blog while having a rare breather at my 15 hour day at work, I have a huge girl crush on her right now).

Scout woven tee

I wouldn’t usually pick a pattern like the Scout Tee; it’s not really my style at all, having absolutely no waist definition. However, I am in desperate need of some simple tops to wear tucked in to the high waisted skirts I favour; and as much as I’d like them all to be delicate blouses, I’m just not ready/skilled enough to make them.

Scout woven tee

This top is perfect. I started by tracing a size 14 and grading out to an 18 in the hips; however, there must be some crazy ease in this pattern because it was humongous, as if I had put a sheet over my head and tried to tuck it in. I ended up taking 1″ off each side seam at the underarms, and 2.5″ at the waist, leaving the hips as they are. Next time I’ll also raise the sleeves by 1cm as they’re sitting a little too lateral.

Scout woven tee

I really like the scooped neckline on me, too – I think I’ll be using this to alter a few of my other patterns. I accidentally sewed the bias binding (stash) on the wrong side first, so ran with it and used it as a “design feature”, which I quite like – it helps break up the dots a bit (which were really hard to look at when the fabric was unrolled at the counter).

Scout woven tee

Warning: the yardage guidelines on the pattern are really generous. I cut mine out as a single layer and used less than 1m, whereas the pattern calls for 1.7m (I traced the pattern out double so I could just lay it out; otherwise I would have folded the fabric so the selvage met in the middle, as both pieces easily sat side by side).

This isn’t a terrible thing, especially as I ended up getting about 50cm free (because there was a fault on the fabric, which I’m almost certain isn’t on the top… I forgot to check before I cut), and now I have extra to use as lining.

Scout woven tee

The whole thing took hardly any time to make up – I cellotaped and traced the pattern Sunday morning; cut out the fabric at 1; started sewing at 2.30 and was taking photos at 4 (okay, okay, that was before I hemmed it though – it was to catch the light, I swear!).

All the while I was helping Mr. Guy and two brothers make halloumi:

Homemade halloumi

Yuuuuum. Homemade halloumi is easy, cheaper and tastier than most bought-stuff, at least the type you get in NZ. I use this recipe by Ted (also from Wellingtonian), video here. All you need is 4L of milk, some rennet which is easily found, but you may have to order online if you want vegetarian rennet – within NZ I use Cottage Crafts for all my cheesemaking supplies.

Mr. Guy and Brother Ollie were also bottling some homemade beer

Bottling beer

Back to the top. The fabric is a very lightweight, almost see-through cotton polka-dot. It will be oh-so-nice for summer, although it was so fragile my machines wanted to gather it right up:

Scout Woven Tee

Good for the sleeves, not so good everywhere else. I used a sharp micro needle which was a good idea that I’d usually forget to do. The internal seams are all overlocked, and I’ve done a narrow hem on my overlocker. Next one I do (as I know how it should fit) I might try french seams. And the bias binding will be on the inside.

Scout woven tee

Speaking of bias binding necklines – I, like many others, can’t seem to make it stay flat and not roll outwards (or inwards in this case). I know you’re supposed to pretty the binding into a curve before applying it (thanks to Mrs. C), but it still happens to me. Anyone got any other tips?

Details
Pattern: Scout Woven Tee by Grainline Studio, $6.60 NZD
Fabric: Lightweight cotton from The Fabric Store, $18/m, 1.6m (extra due to a flaw) = $18
Notions: Bias binding and thread, stash.
Total: $24.60

Scout Woven Tee

Disclaimer: this post was entirely written in html, because the wordpress online editor wasn’t working for me last night or this morning. Reminds me of lunchtimes and IT classes in 4th form, spent collating every Dragon Ball Z picture I could find online, on to a website using html. I also had DBZ pictures plastered all over my walls, in black and white using my school printing allowance. Anyone else LOVE Dragon Ball Z?

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7 thoughts on “Scout leader

  1. What a cute top! And I like the bias binding on the outside. It’s a nice contrast to a busy fabric. I have found the same thing about not having enough tops to pair with the pencil skirts I’ve made. I have a pattern for a bustier from Burda I’m keen to make, but other patterns just keep getting in the way!

    Good tip about the micro needle. I have that problem with my machine wanting to chew really fine fabrics, especially when the seam allowance is particularly narrow. I would never have known that without reading this – so thank you!!

    • I’ve also “discovered” something I should have known a long time ago; change your needles regularly. I only change mine when I notice it’s blunt or when I remember (hardly ever); but my goodness a fresh needle makes a difference! My machine sews so much nicer.

  2. The scout tee looks great It actually looks very dressed up tucked into your high waisted skirt. I’m not sure why your bias binding did that. I made my own bias tape and applied it at the neckline and sleeves for my Polly to and it laid fine. I believe that if it rolls out, the binding is too loose, you need to stretch it a bit as you attach it. So that would lead me to believe that if its rolling inwards than the bias binding is too tight.

  3. Cute top! 🙂 I think you can get away with boxier silhouettes in a fine drapey fabric, and also tucking it in looks great! 🙂 and may I just say I was super into dragon ball z! Haha!

    • This fabric isn’t quite as drapey as I thought it was going to be, but it works.

      I used to literally run home from school to tape every episode (and I was expert and editing out the ad’s as it went – did you know you could pause then press fast forward or rewind to move the video one frame at a time?). I also had sticker books, figurines etc. And I met the voice of teen Gohan at the Armageddon Expo ^-^

  4. How lovely! I have yet to buy this pattern, but I’m experiencing a similar lack of dressy blouses in my wardrobe. All the blouse patterns I own are decked out with buttons, collars, and such, which I love, but rarely want to take the time to sew on something that’s not a dress. The Scout tee may be my answer! I absolutely love how it looks on you, especially tucked into a high-waist skirt like that. Thanks for the gorgeous inspiration, Sophie-Lee!

    • I’m also planning on trying it out with a kimono sleeve – even less cutting and seaming! I feel EXACTLY the same way, in that I hardly ever want to spend the yardage or time on a blouse, when I could make a dress with the same amount. 2m on a shirt? Hello, that could be an entire outfit.

      This one only used about 0.8m, which is definitely worth it! I now just need to make some more plain coloured skirts, with a STRAIGHT waistband – this curved one doesn’t work so well. I’m going to end up with 20 pencil/straight skirts from the same pattern 😀

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